| Which Pacific Island stopover should you pick? |
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David Whitley takes a look at the options for Pacific stopovers, and tries to help you decide which one is right for you.
For round the world trips that cover both Australia or New Zealand and the United States, there is often the option of stopping off somewhere in the Pacific. It would be a mistake to think all of the Pacific stopover options are interchangeable, however. The Pacific nations have subtly (and sometimes not so subtly) different characters, and the range of experiences on offer can be very different. So if you’re only planning to stop in one place, it pays to pick wisely.
Three of the main options are ones I haven’t been to, but I can sum up the prevailing opinion of them in a sentence. So here goes – French Polynesia is pretty but more developed than you might imagine, and eye-wateringly expensive. Hawai’i has loads going for it, but Honolulu is a traffic-choked grothole so head to the other islands. As for Tonga, most of the highlights are on the outer islands, although Tongatapu has its endearing quirks.
Now then, the other islands...
Vanuatu
Vanuatu is probably the weirdest of the Pacific nations. In the colonial era, it was jointly governed by the French and British, and now the parts where the French and English speakers hang out are fantastically arbitrary. But there’s more to it than that – for a relatively tiny population, Vanuatu has hundreds of native languages, and once you start branching out from the main island of Efate, things start to get very odd indeed. You don’t really go to Vanuatu for the stereotypical images of white sand beaches and overwater bungalows. It’s somewhere you go to meet people who worship possibly mythical American airmen, climb up billowing live volcanoes and watch the chaps who inspired bungy jumping leap from high platforms with only vines tied to their legs. It’s relatively cheap on the ground, but internal flights will rack up costs. The other problem with Vanuatu is that it generally has to be done as a separate side trip from Australia or New Zealand – it doesn’t fit in with the routes for most of the RTW airlines.
The Cook Islands
Of all the Pacific options, the Cook Islands is arguably most devoted to tourism. Fiji attracts the mass package tourism from Australia and New Zealand in far higher numbers, but the Cook Islands has a tiny population (around 20,000) so it’s all about proportion. Of all the islands, the Cooks are probably the most laid-back. There seems to be a blissful happiness about the people, and a fairly equal society – you’ll not see any of the poverty that is clearly visible in some of the other Pacific nations. The main island, Rarotonga, is hugely enjoyable whether you’re into hiking, kayaking or lounging by the lagoon. But it’s Aitutaki – which requires a separate flight – that is truly special. The lagoon here is often rated as the most beautiful in the world, and some of the luxury resorts that sit at its edges are magnificent. But there are also cheaper options if the budget doesn’t stretch. If you’re after a place to chill, the Cook Islands is arguably the Pacific’s best bet. If you’re an all action type or want deeper cultural immersion, you might leave a little unsatisfied. Think of the Cooks as happy, smiley and beautiful without too much complexity and you’re about there. On the ground costs tend to be in the mid-range – not nearly as cheap as Fiji or Samoa, but a darned sight cheaper than French Polynesia.
Fiji
Fiji is the most common Pacific stopover, and the one that’s usually easiest to work into RTW tickets. It has a population (around the million mark) that is significantly higher than that of its Pacific neighbours. Hence it can feel more like a ‘real’ place than the other island fantasylands, particularly if you break off the normal tourist trail. The main island, Viti Levu, has a lot going on. It has an intriguing mix of cultures via the native Fijians and the huge Indian population descended from indentured sugar workers during the colonial era. It’s also set up pretty well for adventure activities such as hiking and rafting. You can do urban in Suva and Lautoka, but the surprisingly grotty Nadi is the main tourism hub. From here, the cruises and island-hopping ferries head out to the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands. Depending on which you head to, these are either havens on which to live out your Robinson Crusoe beach lizard fantasies or party resorts. The key thing about this part of Fiji (and the outer islands to the north and east of Viti Levu are arguably more interesting for anyone wanting to explore properly) is that it generally stays relatively dry. So while the rest of the South Pacific is drowning in the rainy season (generally between around November and April), Fiji’s western highlights aren’t nearly as soggy. And that’s handy to know if you’re travelling during that period. One more thing should be factored in when considering Fiji. It’s not an idyllic paradise – it is ruled by a rather unappealing military dictator (research Frank Bainimarama if you want to learn more) and you’re likely to see genuine poverty if you venture out of the cosseted resorts.
Samoa
There’s a strong argument for Samoa being the Pacific’s best all-rounder. It’s bigger than the Cook Islands, but still has that laid-back, friendly Polynesian vibe (Polynesia does feel more welcoming than Melanesia, incidentally). There’s also a good smattering of beaches and lagoons for the sand and snorkel bunnies. Samoa has three trump cards, however. The first is that traditional culture and lifestyle is still very much in evidence. People are part of their village, and most houses are open huts called fales. You can see into them as you walk past, while kids and pigs run rampant on the grounds. The second key attribute is that Samoa is, to all intents and purposes, two main islands. Upolu and Savai’i are only about 90 minutes apart by ferry – and this means that you can see the best of the country without having to splash out for potentially costly extra internal flights. Thirdly, Samoa is a bit of a natural wonderland. There are hundreds of volcanic cones, mountains, rock arches and lava fields to explore, while the combo of powerful coastline and jungle-covered interiors make gives it that touch of wildness that gets outdoor types excited. Any Pacific gems to share? Let us know below....
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