David Whitley steps out into the moonlight on a remote Omani beach in order to watch turtles giving birth.

When it comes to childbirth, humans have it relatively easy. Well, they do when compared with mummy turtle anyway. There’s no-one to drive her to the hospital, no bed to lie on and no-one to pump her full of epidurals. She has to do the whole job on her own, and she’s giving birth to 100 or more littl’uns rather than just the solitary baby.

David Whitley discovers a Dubai beyond all the offshore island and big tower stereotypes...

It’s difficult to get any less bling than walking out of your hotel, turning the corner and stumbling across fifteen men slaughtering a cow. The stricken beast lies on the floor, its throat cut, as the customers chugging away on their hookah pipes in the local café look on nonchalantly. Deira, it’s fair to say, is the part of Dubai that doesn’t make the tourist brochures. The wealthy Emirate has carefully crafted a reputation for ostentatious opulence. But, contrary to popular belief, there is more to it than seven star hotels, mega-skyscrapers and giant shopping malls. Dubai is often portrayed as lacking history, soul and character, but beyond the towering skyline of Sheikh Zayed Road and the Jumeirah beach resorts, such attributes are there to be found.