Bali Aga


The old Suzuki was rattling badly as I battered at the last of the potholes on the descent down to Bali’s spectacular Batur Volcano. I’ve been coming to Bali for years and have rented this same vehicle on every visit. Over the course of the last decade it has threatened to explode or simply crumble under me on pretty much every volcano, beach road and jungle track on the island. I’m always surprised whenever I get back to Kuta and my friend Mr Putu tells me that the old Suzuki is still “kuat dan sehat” (strong and healthy).

I was beginning to wonder if the road around Batur might finally be the last straw for the faithful old warhorse. But finally we made it and she was able to gasp to a halt on the waterfront at the village of Trunyan. According to some, Trunyan is one of the original ‘cradles of mankind’ on The Island of the Gods. This is one of only five remaining Bali Aga villages on the island. The Bali Aga are often said to be the original Balinese, although in reality they too were part of an early migration that forced the first Balinese farther east to islands like Sumba and Flores where, even today the people have the shocks of fizzy hair that are rarely seen even in the remotest Balinese villages these days.

I was working on an assignment on the Bali Aga people and had already brutalized the old Suzuki all the way to the three remote villages in the hills of the north coast. Then I had driven right around the east of the island to the famous walled ‘fortress village’ of Tenganan and finally back up the southern flanks of the volcanoes to the village of Trunyan.

Most Balinese Hindus cremate their dead. But the people on the shores of Lake Batur are unique in Bali. They are known as ‘Hindus of the Wind’ and they simply lay their dead out in the open air to decompose slowly in the, often surprisingly chilled, highland climate.

A young boatman called Nyoman agreed to row me along the edge of the lake to the sacred cove (inaccessible by land) that has been the resting place of the Bali Aga dead for longer than anyone can remember.

“We have to leave before dark,” he warned me. “Even the official guardians cannot stay in the cemetery at night. There are too many ghosts. It is the ghosts that guard the cemetery at night.”

An eerie wind whipped the lake up as we rowed out from the village and Nyoman had to struggle to keep us away from the rocky shore. The short flight of moss-covered steps that lead into the cemetery are like a backdrop from Apocalypse Now. A pair of skulls guard the pillars of the gateway, staring ahead with sightless eyes. Clove cigarettes lay on the plate in front of their mouths. At the top of the steps about a hundred more skulls were laid out across the top of a flat stone and eleven recent dead were laid on the ground to decompose in the shade of a huge tree. The bodies were shrouded with mats and protected by loose bamboo fences but their faces were open to the sacred wind. Nearby lay a rubbish heap of old rags and the ubiquitous plastic bottles and broken flip-flops. Here and there human bones stuck out of the heap. This was the communal dumping ground for the dead of the last generations. Only the most perfectly preserved skulls are saved from this human garbage heap.

I had wondered about the smell but this is one of the great mysteries of the cemetery at Trunyan and researchers have yet to explain it. “It is the tree that keeps the air fresh,” Nyoman told me, “sometimes we might have to keep a body in the village for up to a week while our priests wait for a good day for burial. The smell in the village can be awful…but as soon as the body arrives here it stops smelling. The wind here is always sweet and pure.”


Wild Bali with Kids


Travelling for six weeks with my nine-year-old daughter Lucia re-opened my eyes to much of the magic of Asia. I wanted her to enjoy experiences that would open a new world to her: a world that is infinitely removed from her home in provincial Pamplona. With this in mind we set out on a month-long adventure to explore the best animal adventures that Bali has to offer.

Here are Lucia’s top five wild Bali adventures (for big kids AND little kids).


Waking before first light to climb into a rickety outrigger motorboat is about as adventurous a start to a day as any kid can bear. Lovina, on Bali’s north coast, has an immense fleet of these boats and a USD5 ticket is all it takes to (pretty much) guarantee that you’ll see at least one pod of dolphins. This is one of the best places in the world to watch bottlenose dolphins. The scene can get quite crowded but by mid-morning the dolphins will have been left to their watery solitude (and the revenue certainly secures their futures). Tip the boatman a little extra and you can also stop at the outer reef for a spot of snorkeling: “Wow! It’s like…like a city of fish!” spluttered Lucia.


Menjangan Resort offers guests short half-day horse-treks through a section of the wonderful West Bali National Park. The horses are big (Australian brumbies) but are steady enough for a child with no experience. The forests around the resort are packed with wild animals including monkeys, bushpigs and several species of deer.


Brumbun Bay is home to one of the last wild flocks of some of the rarest birds in the world. There are just nine wild Bali Starlings (gleaming avian dreams with startling flashes of blue eye-liner) but they return regularly to feed at the ranger station on this remote headland. You will need to haggle with the rangers at the national park office at Labuhan Lalang jetty and their price can be hefty (around USD150 for a family). You rent a boat and spend a night camping among a great herd of big Sambar deer (40 the night we were there) and prowling civets and monitor lizards. Take your own camping equipment or simply sleep in an open-air balé shelter (the soft breeze is just enough to keep the mosquitoes away) on the beach. 


If the photos in the reception area at Elephant Safari Park Lodge are anything to go by then this place is a big favourite with everyone from David Beckham to Sukarno’s wife to Kevin Bloody Wilson. I’m not a big fan of captive animal activities but this well-run elephant rescue centre does seem to provide a secure and safe habitat for its 30-odd rescued Sumatran elephants. Apart from the ride itself – enough to get kids of any age squealing…especially when the elephants lower their girdled bellies gratefully into the water – there’s also an impressive elephant show involving football, basketball and (surprisingly talented) painting.


By comparison the simple little turtle conservation centre at Perancak, near Negara, is one of Bali’s unsung conservation projects and perhaps the most memorable wildlife experience on the island. Depending on the season there are often several thousand baby turtles here waiting for favourable conditions for release. For a few dollars donation you are allowed to carry a dozen or so of the babies down to the edge of the breaking waves to set them free. (Of course, since only an estimated one in 1000 normally survive, the chances are slim that any of your turtles will ever make it back in 15 or so years to lay their own eggs here). With luck though your child will be back before then…and, hopefully, there will still be turtles to crawl optimistically up the beach in the dead of night.



You can get Bali included as a stopover on your RTW here



Published by Stuart Lodge

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